بررسی سیر تحول فرهنگ کافهنشینی و تبدیل قهوه خانهها به کافی شاپ؛
کافه و کافهنشینی، فرهنگی برای «کنارهمبودن»
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مرور تاریخ مبین آن است که کافهها نظیرِ تمامی فضاهای شهری،در ابتدا با نام قهوهخانه و چایخانه براساس نیاز جامعه و پاسخ به نیازهای زیستی و فرهنگی شکل گرفتند.
کافهها هرچند که در آغازِ شکلگیری میعادگاهی برای نویسندگان، ادبا و شعرا بودند اما به سرعت به محفلی برای گفتگوی صنعتگران، پیشهوران، تجار، ورزشکاران زورخانه،معلمین و دیگر اقشار مختلف جامعه و پاتوقی برای گفتگو، اندیشه و تبادلنظر تبدیل شدند.
پیش از پیدایش رادیو، نقالها خبرهای سیاسی و اجتماعی روز را در این مکانها برای مردم نقل میکردند،نزاعها و اختلافات محلی نیز در همین قهوهخانهها توسط ریشسفیدان محل حل میشد. نکتهی مهمتر آنکه قهوهخانهها مطلع هنر «نقالی» و «شاهنامهخوانی» بودند. درواقع قهوهخانهها به این جهت که مکانِ ثابتی برای نقالان و شاهنامهخوانان بودند، به اعتلا و ارتقا این هنر کمک شایانِ توجهی کردند.
سنتِ کافهنشینی از زمان صفویه تا دورهی قاجار و حتی در کافههای معاصر نظیر کافهفیروز و کافهنادری تهران و کافهداشآقا مشهد، همواره نقش و کارکرد اجتماعی فرهنگی داشت اما تحولات تدریجی در حوزهی اجتماعی و فرهنگی، همزمان با اینکه قهوهخانهها را تبدیل به پدیدهای نوظهور به نام «کافیشاپ» کرد، کارکردِ فرهنگی و اجتماعی این نهادها را هم دستخوش تغییر کرد و هویت آنها را سلب کرد. همانطور که مشاهده میکنیم امروزه در مشهد در هر کوی و کوچهای چراغ «کافیشاپی» روشن است که اغلب افرادِ آن به دو دسته تقسیم میشوند، عدهای در تنهایی فقط مشغول«با خود بودن» و پر کردنِ بخشی از ساعات روز خود هستند و عدهای به صورت گروهی مشغول بازیهای دستهجمعی هستند.
وقتی در این خصوص با یک خراسان پژوه صحبت میکنم، او فرهنگ «کنارهمبودن» را اساسِ شکلگیری کافه و کافهنشینی میداند و تصریح میکند: این فرهنگ ریشهدارتر از موضوع قهوهخانه است. هرکجا که رفتاری مذهبی و آیینی دارید، آن رفتار به تجمع گروهی احتیاج دارد، میدانیم که همین «دورهم جمعشدنها» که در روزگارِ معاصر از آن به عنوان «جشن» یاد میکنیم، سری در حضورِ افراد و آدمها دارد، یعنی در فردیت چیزی شکل نگرفته است و لذا اهمیت «کنارهمبودن» که یک مسئلهی محوری است نباید از خاطر برده شود مثلا همین آیین «چراغان» که در خراسان بزرگ داشتهایم کاملا به گردهمآیی اشاره دارد تا سرما و تاریکی فراگیرِ زمستان و سیطرهی اهریمن را کمرنگ کند، همینطورآیین شبِ چله از«کنارهم بودن»شکلگرفته است.
حسن احمدیفرد ادامه میدهد: در معماری سنتی ما هم در محلاتِ شهری و حتی روستاها اغلب میدانگاهی برای تجمع افراد وجود داشت بنابراین از دیرباز در فرهنگ ما همواره این پیشبینی برای معاشرت و دیدار و گفتگو وجود داشته است تا نیازِ به معاشرت و درجمع بودنِ انسان را رفع کند بنابراین نباید از خاطر ببریم که اساسا «دورهم بودن»، در فرهنگِ ما سنتِ پسندیدهای است و کافههای مدرن هم در ایران و مشهد در ادامهی همین سنت شکل گرفتند.
«کافهداشآقا» و «کافهشعرا»در مشهد میراثدار فرهنگِ قهوهخانهای
این نویسنده و خراسانپژوه با اشاره به زائرپذیر بودنِ مشهد اظهار میکند: به خاطر تراکم جمعیت و سفرهایی که از قدیم به واسطهی حرم مطهر رضوی به مشهد میشد، فرهنگِ قهوهخانه در این شهر از ابتدا پر رونق بود. در مشهد قدیم در اطراف حرم مطهر امام رضا (ع) و محلاتِ نزدیک به حرم، قهوهخانههای زیادی داشتیم که معروفترین آن کافهداشآقا در نزدیکی باغملی بود. این کافه را میتوان حد واسط قهوهخانههای قدیم و کافههای مدرن در مشهد دانست چراکه هم کارکردِ قهوهخانهای داشت و هم شبیه کافههای دهه 30 و 40 بود زیرا پاتوق هنرمندان و شعرای مشهد هم بود. همچنین اینکه ما در جنت هم «کافهشعرا» را داشتیم که در واقع قهوهخانهای بود در یک زیرزمین که پاتوق اهلادب نظیرِ حمید تقیآبادی بود که جریانی به نام «شعرکافه» را راهانداخت. اما در روزگار مناسب جایی را سراغ ندارم که الگوی کاملی از فرهنگ قهوهخانهای باشد.
چگونگی تبدیلِ قهوهخانه به کافههای مدرن
وقتی از احمدیفرد در مورد چگونگی تولد کافههای مدرن میپرسم پاسخ میدهد: از سالِ 1300 به بعد مناسباتِ اجتماعی ما دستخوشِ تغییراتی جدی شد. حتی شیوهی حکومت تا قبل از روی کار آمدنِ سلسله پهلوی، همان مناسباتِ 600 سال قبل بود که همهی حکام به یک پادشاه وابسته بوده اند و به حکومت مرکزی مالیات میدادند اما پس از روی کارآمدنِ حکومت پهلوی تلاش میشود تا جامعه شکل جدیدی پیدا کند پیرو آن مناسبات کهن به مدرنیته پیوند میخورد. همین مقطع را میتوان نقطهی عطفی برای شروع اتفاقات مهمی در حوزه فرهنگ دانست. به عنوان مثال تا قبل از این تاریخ نهادی مانند روستا، نهادی خودبسنده بوده است اما از این مقطع به بعد با تصمیماتِ نادرستی که گرفته میشود، یک وابستگی برای روستاها تعریف میشود که منشا اتفاقات فرهنگی بیشماری است. به عنوان مثال تلاش میشود تا برای تامین گرما، کُندهی درست سوزانده نشود و درست در دهههای بعد موضوع نفت هم مطرح میشود و نفت به منزل روستاییان میرود و عملا آنها وابسته میشوند.
وی میافزاید: بر همین اساس کافهها هم، همزمان با همین تغییراتِ فرهنگی، تغییر شکل دادند و هویت آنها دگرگون شد. افراد با سیر و سیاحت در اروپا تلاش میکنند الگوی کهن قهوهخانهها را با شکل دیگری تعریف کنند و در اثر همین تلاشها کافهها با کارکردِ جدیدتان متولد میشوند و شاید همان موقع شکاف و انقطاعی هم در جامعه اتفاق میافتد چرا که افراد قهوهخانهرو که برای نقالی و پردهخوانی به قهوهخانهها میرفتند انگار دیگرنمیتوانستند خودرا در کافههای مدرن تعریف کنند و برعکس جوانانی که مشتریان کافهها شدهبودند نمیتوانستند نیاز خود را در قهوهخانهها رفع کنند.
کافههای مدرن معلول شکاف اجتماعی
این خراسانپژوه با تاکید بر اینکه کافهگردهای مدرن محصول شکافی اجتماعی هستند، میگوید: درواقع در آن ایام جامعه درست یا غلط تصمیم میگیرد از پوستهی خود بیرون بیاید. بنابراین کافهگردهای مدرن سه دسته بودند، یا روشنفکران و افراد اروپا رفته، یا افرادی از جامعه که اگر اروپا نرفتهاند، نیازهایشان را در شکل جدید کافهها یافته بودند و گروه دیگر مشتریانِ «پیالهفروشیها» .
او با اشاره بر اهمیتِ نقش «پیالهفروشیها» میگوید: به «پیالهفروشیها» که نقش پررنگی در شهر و نظام اجتماعی داشتند، بهخاطر ملاحظاتِ مذهبی متاسفانه زیاد پرداخته نشده است.ما در مشهد این «پیالهفروشیها»را در داخل شهر یعنی خیابانِ ارگ و بیرونِشهر یعنی در مکانِ کنونی پلِ فرودگاه داشتهایم. بنابراین من کافههای مدرن را بیشتر از آنکه معلولِ نوعی روشنفکری بدانم، معلول این شکاف و انقطاع در بینِ لایههای جامعه میدانم و لذا کافه با تعریف دهه 20 و 30، همچنان بازتعریفِ قهوهخانه در محیطی جدید است.
کافههای امروز برای «دورهم جمع شدن» نیستند!
او با تاکید بر شکلِ کافیشاپهای امروزه خاطرنشان میکند: چیزی که امروز مشاهده میکنیم اصلا فضایی برای دورهمجمعشدن آدمها نیست، کافههای امروز برای «دورهم جمع نشدن» هستند و اتفاقا معماری و چیدمان آنها، «فردیت» آدمها را پررنگ میکند و افراد هم تنهایی خود را به آنجا میبرند تا تنهاییشان در کنارِ تنهاییدیگران پر شود و کسی به آنها کاری نداشته باشد و آنها هم با کسی کاری نداشته باشند بنابراین کافیشاپهای امروزی اساسا در تضادِ با کافههای دهه 30 و نظامی که افراد را در کنار هم میخواسته، هستند. طبیعتا فضایی که برای فردیت افراد خلق شده، نمیتواند کارکردِ اجتماعی هم داشته باشد.
نقش و اهمیت کافیشاپها در زندگی امروزه
در بلوار وکیلآباد وارد یکی از این کافیشاپها میشوم، با جوانی که گوشهای از کافه نشستهاست وارد گفتگو شده و متوجه میشوم کوهنورد است. او با بیانِ اینکه کافیشاپها نقش مهمی در زندگی روزمره دارند، میگوید: در نبودِ مکانهای مناسب دیگر، کافیشاپها بخشِ زیادی از نیازهای ما اعماز قرارهای کاری روزانه، ملاقاتهای دوستانه در فصول سرد و.. را تامین میکنند. درشهری که برای گذرانِ وقت و تفریح جوانان فضای زیادی وجود ندارد، مخصوصا در زمستان، جوانان جایی برای ساعاتی ملاقات و گپ و گفت ندارند.
محمد جواد کوهجانی ادامه میدهد: اما متاسفانه تنها جوانان و نسلِ جدید مخاطبانِ این فضاها هستند و بزرگترها بعضا حتی تاکنون به این مکانها نیامدهاند، در حالیکه باید چیدمان کافیشاپها طوری باشد که بزرگترها و خانوادهها هم بتوانند از این فضاهای شهری بهرهببرند درحالیکه نورِ کم وفضای پر از دود این فضاها، باعث میشود خانوادهها تمایلی به حضور در کافیشاپها نداشته باشند
کوهجانی تجمیع کافیشاپها در مناطقِ بهخصوصی از مشهد را یک نقص میداند و میگوید: تراکم کافیشاپها تنها در مناطق مرفهنشین مشهد این مکانها را متعلق به طبقهی اجتماعی خاصی از شهر کرده است و این اتفاق خوشایندی نیست.
اسارتِ زندگی ماشینی یکی از دلایل اقبالِ عمومی جامعه به کافیشاپ
زهرا زارعی، معلم بازنشستهای است که میزِ دیگری از این کافه را برای گفتگو با همکارش انتخاب کرده، او اسارتِ زندگی ماشینی را یکی از دلایل اقبالِ عمومی جامعه در سالهای اخیر به کافیشاپ میداند و میگوید: تکنولوژی و عصر میکروثانیه باعث شده مردم در طول روز به مکانهای آرامی برای دورشدنِ از سرعت سرسامآور زندگی احتیاج داشته باشند بنابراین بر اساس نیاز مردم در سالهای اخیر با تعداد زیاد کافیشاپها در کلانشهر مشهد مواجه شدیم.
زارعی میگوید: جدا از بحث اشتغالزایی، کافیشاپها قبل از اینکه با فرهنگ ما منطبق شوند، با سرعت زیادی اشاعه پیدا کردند. در واقع کافیشاپهای امروزه شکل بازسازی شدهی قهوهخانههای قدیم ما نیستند بلکه تنها از سوغاتِ بد غرب هستند که خروجی آنها تنها مصرفگرایی است نه معاشرت و گفتگو و اندیشه. اما جوانان میتوانند با فکر مولد خود از همین فضاها بهرهی درست ببرند، نمونهی موفق آن «کافهکتاب» است که امروز تعدادی کمی از آنرا در مقایسه با «کافیشاپها» در مشهد مشاهده میکنیم.
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